Masterclass: Key Inspirations for Autumn/Winter by Liz Collinge

We showcased 2 models to demonstrate our key inspirations for Autumn Winter this year.

Talking about fashion first I talked through the colour palette for the season – namely autumn leaves with a lot of emphasis on browns with brighter pops of yellow, mustard and orange. To carry off these colours you need a warm colouring such as red hair, warm skin tones or brown/hazel/green eyes. For cool toned complexions these colours can really wash you out.

The catwalk also showed primary colours especially cobalt blue and continued with red as a key theme.

Unsurprisingly metallics are big this season but with silver emerging as the favourite. To work all colours in a modern way choose either, full on one-colour dressing or tone on tone – variations in the same colour group.

Moving on to patterns we have can’t fail to notice a proliferation of animal prints. All prints are cool but snakeskin seemed to come out strongest. There is still a lot of floral about and also tweed, plaid and tartan were a big story.

The fabrics of choice are leather – softly tailored, pvc, velvet, silk and satin and all things sparkly.

The stories were 80’s again! Although mixed up with all the other decades. Layering continues to be big with waistcoats over coats, coats over coats and slip dresses over jumpers. I like the western cowboy look with frills, fringes and boots.

Moving on to makeup there is a softening of application. The hard contouring has given way to subtle contours only and a rosey blush is preferable. Aim for a sheen rather than shine when you perfect your complexion. Eyebrows too, although still emphasised, can be deepened in colour but in a soft feathery way.
The exception to softness was that a lot of eye looks on the catwalk featured graphic lines.


I showed 2 key looks on our models.

The first was a tone on tone palette with deep plum colours on the lids and a bronze highlight to the centre – all carefully blended. When trying dark eyes like this the secret is to build up the colour slowly and blend, blend, blend. Cheeks were softly flushed and lips a deep burgundy. If you have thin lips you should avoid dark colours like this and choose a natural gloss instead.

The second look was a pale ethereal skin finished with a powder with a slight sparkle. A graphite sparkle pencil was used to create winged, catlike eyes and silver and pewter was swept over the lids and in the socket. A light silver powder was used at the corners of the eyes.

Cheeks and lips were a soft neutral so as not to overpower the look.

The hair was based on a teddy girl theme with a quiff for the short hair and height for the up do. This season there has been much more volume and finish. The colours for the hair complemented the clothes with clean blonde highlights for the short hair and a warm chestnut shade for the long hair.

The starting point for choosing the colour themes for both models was identifying whether they were warm or cool and following this through with choice of hair colours and make up.

We can see if clients are warm or cool before starting colour appointments. To find out yourself …
Take all your make up off and use natural daylight only.
In turn hold pink and peach (or gold and silver) fabrics under your chin and see which is the most flattering.
Pink = cool
Peach = warm
Silver = cool
Gold = warm

Make sure you bring a glow to your colouring this Winter.